The Highest Arcade in the World

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Sunday, May 17, 2009

Editor's Note: I really have nothing to add except: read it! -Demian


Darjeeling, India

Almost ten years ago to the day I was crammed in the back of a Jeep with three friends, slowly climbing the impossibly steep roads that snake their way up the Himalayas. Our destination was Darjeeling, India, the “Queen of the Hill Stations.”

We had initially planned Darjeeling to be a stop-off on the way to Tibet, but when 1600 Maoists laid siege to a Tibeten police post, we were advised against unnecessary travel. We didn’t argue.

Darjeeling had its own attractions, though. Our lodgings looked out on the vast expanse of lush tea bushes stretching down along the hillslopes. You could just about make out the figures of tea-pickers in the fields, old ladies with baskets draped over one arm, quickly making their way along the steep, leafy rows. The town itself is so high that when we opened the balcony doors, clouds poured into our room. Everest loomed in the distance. It was stunning.

Despite this, it isn’t the views that are my enduring memory of Darjeeling, but something a little more unique. For among the little shops and restaurants sat high in the Indian sky is a small room, little more than a shack really; the highest arcade in the world.

 

When I say “arcade,” what I really mean is a collection of old televisions wired up to PlayStations, arranged across a battered formica tabletop. Covering the entire back wall was a massive cabinet stuffed to bursting with pirated PSOne games, complete with poorly photocopied boxart. For just a few rupees the young boy that ran the arcade would grab the game of your choice, pop it into a PlayStation and keep you topped up with cups of Darjeeling’s finest. After days of travelling, catching snippets of sleep on noisy, dusty trains, this was exactly what we needed.

We spent all day sat in there, making our way though every two player game we could find. We devoured racing games both familiar and unfamiliar (Kill Kartoon Karts anyone?) and a fair few sports titles before we eventually settled down for a marathon session of Street Fighter Alpha 3.

The arcade boy -- silent during the couple of hours we had already spent in his makeshift gaming temple -- suddenly became more animated. Each win was greeted with a beaming smile and applause, a well executed Super Combo drew loud cheers. He didn’t understand English, but he understood Street Fighter. We had a miniature audience.

I played to our one-boy crowd, winning round after round in as stylish and obnoxious a manner as I could, lifting my arms in victory with each win, high-fiving the arcade boy after each flashy combo. We laughed at my friend’s expense as he cursed loudly, disgusted by my arrogance. After a couple of hours of this he became bored of losing and the gloating that accompanied it, nodded at the boy and handed him the controller.

What followed was a thorough schooling in the art of fighters. Arcade boy battered me, I lost round after round, each loss punctuated by the cheers and high-fives of the boy and my friend. His Sagat was unstoppable. Every tactic, every trick, everything I had, arcade boy had an answer to. With a smile as wide as his face he even mimicked my arms-raised victory dance. My friend loved every second of it.

In the Jeep on the way back down the mountain, I reflected on my time in Darjeeling. The views and the monasteries, the orchids and the sunsets; they were beautiful, inspiring. But it was the boy’s shrine to gaming that stuck most strongly in my mind. The cloud-wrapped videogame shack. The highest arcade in the world.

(This article also appears on www.lbcollect.wordpress.com)

 
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Comments (13)
Brett_new_profile
May 17, 2009
I'm loving this piece, Lee. I've long been a fan of personal histories, although I've never really come across any relating to games. But between you and Derrick Hopkins and some of the others posting here, it's looking like this sort of writing will find a home at Bitmob. Keep 'em coming!
Brett_new_profile
May 17, 2009
P.S. Playing as Sagat is a cheap move.
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May 18, 2009
I agree with Brett. I really like this, and I hope there are more in the future.
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May 18, 2009
"Mount Kilimanjaro loomed in the distance." Ummm... You could see all the way to Africa from there?[i][/i]
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May 18, 2009
Oops, I meant Everest! Gonna change that now. Thanks.
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May 18, 2009
That was an awesome story. Thanks for sharing that. Ever see The Darjeeling Limited? Any relation?
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May 18, 2009
Never got around to watching The Darjeeling Limited, though I do like Wes Anderson. Must seek it out. Thanks for all the nice messages (and mountain-naming advice!) everyone, it is greatly appreciated.
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May 19, 2009
Killer story. Great imagery also.
Shoe_headshot_-_square
May 19, 2009
Great story. How come you didn't take any pictures, though?
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May 19, 2009
I took loads! But they were all of mountains, temple monkeys, tea fields and such. The 'arcade' was just a grubby little room with playstations, it didn't occur to me until later that the experience might linger. This was in 1999, I wonder if it's still there?
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May 19, 2009
In 1991 I went to the India to see my father's family. The only thing I remember after the bus ride into the Himalayas, was playing Pacman in that small village. Thanks for the reminder.
Ragnaavatar2
May 20, 2009
Wow, nice story.
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July 16, 2009
It felt good to read that story. And I would totally learn Street Fighter as a second language if they'd let me.

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